Report minor injuries here.
Call 999 if needed.
Phones are next to both doors.
First aid kit is at the sink.
You must familiarise yourself with the contents of this page, and the Device Manual, before using this equipment.
Vacuum forming is a manufacturing process used to shape plastic sheets into various products. The process involves:
Heating a plastic sheet until it becomes pliable.
Forming it over a mold using vacuum pressure to create the desired shape.
Upon cooling, the plastic retains the shape of the mold, resulting in a durable product.
The Formech 300XQ stands out from other vacuum formers due to its four heating zones and quartz heaters, which provide rapid heat response and a greater range of control for forming challenging shapes and materials. This machine is designed for versatility, making it suitable for a wide range of applications, including education and product design.
There are many things! Here are just a few ideas that the MakeSpace Vacuum Former has been used for:
Whether jelly, chocolate or.. other... Food-safe PETG is perfect for vacuum forming your moulds.
You'll want a thicker material for this, something like ABS or HIPS, at least 1mm thick, should give you a sturdy mould for resin. Don't forget your mould release!
Whether you're building a car, boat, or.. other... a vacuum formed body shell is a great way to get a high quality finish without adding extra weight.
Whether it's a lightweight helmet, food-safe dental appliances (fangs!) or body shells for props and accessories, the vacuum former's got your back here too.
We've all seen (and probably bought) products with vacuum formed packaging. It's very handy to protect a product, hold it in place and look professional. most also incorporate a display element to entice you to buy it.. Are you making a product and want to market it with high-quality, professional packaging? Here's a great option for you!
You'll need the following to use the vacuum former successfully:
Pick the type and thickness of plastic you'll need to make your form. Here's a quick guide to materials:
This is a solid form that the heated, pliable material is pulled over and then shaped fully with the vacuum. There are some rules you'll want to remember when creating a buck, which we'll cover further down this page. For now, just know you'll need one.
The vacuum former is very heavy. Please take extra care when moving it.
It has moving parts and some heating elements. Take care and make sure you use the handles when operating it to avoid injury and damage to the machine.
If you plan on handling the form while hot, especially to help the vacuum into tight corners, be sure to wear heat resistant gloves (to be supplied ASAP)
Make sure to switch the machine off and unplug it when finished.
The vacuum former generates heat and has some moving parts, so you'll want to pull it out, carefully, from its nest under the stairs. Take care when doing this, it's very heavy. Ensure you can manouvre it into the open where the cable can reach a power outlet without being putting strain on any parts, and so you can freely and easily reach, and move, the heating unit on top and the bed lever on the right side of the machine.
You'll want to ensure there is enough clearance around the buck that it doesn't catch on platen housing when raising and lowering, but not so much that it leaves loose material that can gather. Ideally, you'd aim for no more than an inch border. You can use the entire vacuum platen if your buck is big enough, or you can fit a reducer.
MakeSpace has three reducers, stored underneath the vacuum former. The lower plate is flat and has a foam gasket which faces upwards. Use the locator pins in the holes on the reducer to ensure it's in the right place.
The upper plate attaches to the clamp frame by hooking over the frame at the rear, and is fastened with a nut and bolt at the front. Ensure the bolt is tight by checking for movement when lifting the clamp frame.
Pull the bed lever towards you to raise the bed, and position your buck in the centre of the opening. Doing this after fitting the reducer also allows you to confirm you've picked the right size. Once positioned, push the lever back to lower the bed.
Lift the top of the clamp frame and position your plastic sheet so it completely covers the opening in the frame and the gasket, if using a reducer. The clamp frame needs something to hold onto all the way round so it can create a vacuum.
Lower the clamp frame into position and lock the toggle clamps to hold it securely. The toggle clamps can be adjusted if needed.
Heater standby level should stay at approx. 30% as this is the most efficient setting.
The Formech 300XQ features four independent heating zones, allowing for precise control over the heat during the vacuum forming process. This setup is particularly beneficial for producing challenging shapes and materials, as it provides a greater range of control and flexibility.
A good level to start off is 60% on Zone 1 and 75% for all other zones, but you may want to adjust this depending on what exactly you're using/making. the table below aims to provide some indication as a starting point but if in any doubt, start with lower temperatures and shorter times and work up from there.
NOTE: For the 0.5mm PETG stock makeSpace currently has, you only really need about 30 seconds once the elements are up to temperature (which doesn't take long at all)
Ensure the bed lever is fully back and the bed is at its lowest point.
Pull the heating unit towards you until it moves no further and the timer starts its countdown.
You can move the heat unit back at any point to check on your material. You should see a slight "droop" in the plastic when it's ready.
If you need more time once the timer has gone off, you can push the heating unit all the way back to reset the timer and pull it forward again to restart it.
When your material is ready, push the heating unit away from you until it's fully retracted. The bed will not raise it the heating unit is in the way.
Don't hesitate on the next steps!
Pull the bed lever towards you, gently but relatively quickly, until it locks.
Switch on the vacuum and watch the magic happen. Keep the vacuum on until your sheet is fully formed and has cooled enough to retain its shape.
While the vacuum is still running, push the release lever down to relieve some of the vacuum pressure and aid the de-moulding process.
if all has gone well, there should be very little cleanup to do.
Check the machine and the surrounding area for any debris, waste material or mess, and tidy/clean as needed.
Switch off the vacuum former at its power switch.
Pull the heating unit towards you to "close" the machine and protect the platen from dust, debris and damage
Unplug the vacuum former from the outlet.
Carefully wheel the machine back into its next under the stairs.
Here are some tips,rules and guidelines for making a vacuum forming buck
There are many ways you can do this, including multiple methods available to you in MakeSpace
This will work, but remember to use a filament that can withstand high temperatures. The heat from the plastic sheet will transfer to the print and may deform it, especially under prolongued contact and under the forces of a vacuum. You may also find the print delaminates along the layer lines and therefore may not survive the forming process.
Depending on the shape you need, you might find you can break the object down and laser cut each layer to glue up later. This is especially handy if you include locator holes in the design that you can then use dowels to accurately place and secure each layer. For example:
This is probably your best option if you have the skills and training to utilise it. You can create your buck on either the large CNC router in the woodshop, or on the CNC Model Mill if the size matches.
If possible, plan your design for the de-moulding process.
Draft angles are your friend. They only need to be very slight, but they will make it a lot easier to remove the formed part from the buck without damaging either.
You see the mistake in the image above? That's right, there's an undercut. You don't want undercuts. They will make it impossible to separate the part from the buck and one or both items will be destroyed in the process. Ask me how I know...
Air holes are a great addition to optimise airflow and ensure you get a tight finish with minimal voids around your part.
When a plastic sheet is molded into a 3D shape, its surface area increases while its thickness decreases. Ideally, the height should not exceed two thirds of the width to avoid parts becoming too thin.
Avoid sharp angles.
Depending on what you're making, it may be necessary or beneficial to separate the part into multiple that can then be assembled later.